things you will need for your piggy.
1, A hutch on legs, 4ft long and weather proof if to be kept outside.
http://www.ronspets.co.uk/
http://www.petproperties.co.uk/
2. shavings for floor, cover with about 1" and clean out at least once a week.
3. Heavy food bowl and water bottle.
4. meadow hay and fresh vegetables.
5. guinea pig mix(Bere valley pigs are fed on a mixture Allen & Page Guinea pig Mix, Allen and Page Rabbits choice, plus Dried Grass and Rolled Oats )we supply a small bag of change over food, but please remember if changing the food it is done over 7-10 days.
6. Hutch spray
7.treats and toys.
8, A run, with a covered area from rain and sunlight.
9, If possible find an Exotic Vet
1, A hutch on legs, 4ft long and weather proof if to be kept outside.
http://www.ronspets.co.uk/
http://www.petproperties.co.uk/
2. shavings for floor, cover with about 1" and clean out at least once a week.
3. Heavy food bowl and water bottle.
4. meadow hay and fresh vegetables.
5. guinea pig mix(Bere valley pigs are fed on a mixture Allen & Page Guinea pig Mix, Allen and Page Rabbits choice, plus Dried Grass and Rolled Oats )we supply a small bag of change over food, but please remember if changing the food it is done over 7-10 days.
6. Hutch spray
7.treats and toys.
8, A run, with a covered area from rain and sunlight.
9, If possible find an Exotic Vet
Introducing a baby Guinea pig to an older one
There are many ways to introduce a new baby to your older guinea pig.
I find this way normally works well, please read to the end before going ahead, it is best to have a separate person in charge of each pig on the first introduction.
1.. If possible have them in two separate cages side by side for the first few day prior to introduction, so they can see and smell each other before going for the introduction stage, but this isn't so important as when introducing two adults.
2. Before introduction rub the new baby with some of the older ones used bedding, so baby with them have the older ones smell on him/her.
3, Either have a small run on grass or large box with a good handful of grass or fresh greens in it. Have a towel ready in case a squabble does take place and you need to get one out quickly. DO NOT PUT YOUR BARE HAND IN TO BREAK UP A FIGHT, cover one with a towel and remove the pig gently and let her calm down before popping back in her own cage.
4. Put both pigs in together at separate ends of run/box and then sit back and observe what happens, at first they will begin to start eating the grass and investigating their surrounding and finally meet each other and sniff noses, there will then be some running around and some squeaking.....(warning signs are chattering of teeth and chasing the other around and nipping) Most times everything goes well and they can be popped in the same cage. (good idea is to have a small tube or box beg enough for the baby to get in, but not the adult...reason for this is just to give the baby a place of sanctuary whilst you are not around, just in case....they will need to sort out who is the boss, but usually the adult will be more dominate over the baby in the first months. With a adult that has lost a friend, the baby often just snuggles up to the older one and they can be left together from the first introduction, sometimes it takes a little longer if the adult has been on their own for a while.e to edit.
There are many ways to introduce a new baby to your older guinea pig.
I find this way normally works well, please read to the end before going ahead, it is best to have a separate person in charge of each pig on the first introduction.
1.. If possible have them in two separate cages side by side for the first few day prior to introduction, so they can see and smell each other before going for the introduction stage, but this isn't so important as when introducing two adults.
2. Before introduction rub the new baby with some of the older ones used bedding, so baby with them have the older ones smell on him/her.
3, Either have a small run on grass or large box with a good handful of grass or fresh greens in it. Have a towel ready in case a squabble does take place and you need to get one out quickly. DO NOT PUT YOUR BARE HAND IN TO BREAK UP A FIGHT, cover one with a towel and remove the pig gently and let her calm down before popping back in her own cage.
4. Put both pigs in together at separate ends of run/box and then sit back and observe what happens, at first they will begin to start eating the grass and investigating their surrounding and finally meet each other and sniff noses, there will then be some running around and some squeaking.....(warning signs are chattering of teeth and chasing the other around and nipping) Most times everything goes well and they can be popped in the same cage. (good idea is to have a small tube or box beg enough for the baby to get in, but not the adult...reason for this is just to give the baby a place of sanctuary whilst you are not around, just in case....they will need to sort out who is the boss, but usually the adult will be more dominate over the baby in the first months. With a adult that has lost a friend, the baby often just snuggles up to the older one and they can be left together from the first introduction, sometimes it takes a little longer if the adult has been on their own for a while.e to edit.
Guinea pigs take about a week to settle in, they need a handling every day so they become tame, when you first bring them home we advice to place cucumber in their bedroom, so if they are unsure of their surroundings and don't come out for water they have cucumber for back up and it is their favorite treat.
MALE OR FEMALE
It doesn't really matter whether you choose a pair of males or females, males are generally more inquisitive, females a little quieter, we usually know who gets on with who and bond them here, as it is not a good idea to have 2 dominate guinea pigs together male or females. We are happy to help you choose a suitable friend if you already have a single pig and to introduce them here so they can travel home together.
http://www.supremepetfoods.com/furries/guinea-pigs/
If you are new to guinea pigs please read this link as there is some very interesting points
http://nationalcavyclub.co.uk/Welfare%20Code%20.pdf
http://cutiecavies.proboards.com/index.cgi an interesting forum
MALE OR FEMALE
It doesn't really matter whether you choose a pair of males or females, males are generally more inquisitive, females a little quieter, we usually know who gets on with who and bond them here, as it is not a good idea to have 2 dominate guinea pigs together male or females. We are happy to help you choose a suitable friend if you already have a single pig and to introduce them here so they can travel home together.
http://www.supremepetfoods.com/furries/guinea-pigs/
If you are new to guinea pigs please read this link as there is some very interesting points
http://nationalcavyclub.co.uk/Welfare%20Code%20.pdf
http://cutiecavies.proboards.com/index.cgi an interesting forum
Outside.
Locate the hutch away from direct sunlight, morning sun is better then midday/afternoon sun.
Indoors. choose a bright draft/smoke free room with a stable temperature range between 18 to 24 degrees remember sprays can be harmful to piggies health. If you provide a house, then make sure they have one each as fights often result over these.
Pigs are better kept outside in a strong weatherproof hutch, if possible.
small children and baby Guinea pigs
If you have very young children, then they must be supervised when handling baby guinea pigs as small hands can easily squeeze a pig to death, especially when over the first few weeks whilst they get to know you and would recommend a slightly older pig over 10 weeks would be more suitable.
DIET
VITAMIN C. Guinea pigs need Vit C, about 10 to 30 mg a day to prevent scurvy so please provide fresh vegetables everyday about a cupful per pig.
Grass- A good handful of long grass they just love and they love to have access to a run. with babies it is a good idea to introduce the run gradually starting with about 10mins a day, building this up a few extra minutes every other day watching for any tummy problems, this is also important when they have been in all winter and the spring grass starts to grow.
Common problems
Most common problems are mites and skin problems.
Mite can be treated with Johnsons mite spray.
If the piggies are scratching ang making themselves sore then this is probably causedby borrowing mites, which can be trated with spot-on for small animals or the vet can give a suitable bath(Seleen).
Pigs can also get fungal conditions on their skin, usually sores around the ears and face, breeders find that a fungal treatment for Humans work well, but must be used for at least a month to make sure it is properly better.
There seems to be a lot of skin problems around this year so weekly health checks are important.
Spring.
You can now find dandelions and spring grasses to feed your piggies and soon they can go back out in their runs, gradully increase the amount of time on spring grass as sudden change can upset their tummies.
MITES.
watch out for your piggie scratching or hair lose, as they can get mites which can be treated with spot-on for small animals
HOT WEATHER
In hot weather, be sure that your piggies do not become to hot , if necessary move the cage/runs so they are not exposed to full sun all day, you can also cool the temperature of the cage, by placing a frozen small drinks bottle in the cage, also hanging a wet towel over the run.
If your piggies is dribbling, floppy and shaking in obvious distress, then he could well be suffering from heat stroke, what ever you do DO NOT plunge the pig straight into cold water, it will kill him , instead dunk his feet in cool water for 30 seconds get him into a cool/quiet room and wrap in a cool wet towel until he cools down and breathing returns to normal. keep him indoors overnight to avoid a chill.
USEFUL BOOKS
the proper care of Guinea pigs peter gurney.
piggie potions, Peter Gurney
the really useful guinea pig guide
Locate the hutch away from direct sunlight, morning sun is better then midday/afternoon sun.
Indoors. choose a bright draft/smoke free room with a stable temperature range between 18 to 24 degrees remember sprays can be harmful to piggies health. If you provide a house, then make sure they have one each as fights often result over these.
Pigs are better kept outside in a strong weatherproof hutch, if possible.
small children and baby Guinea pigs
If you have very young children, then they must be supervised when handling baby guinea pigs as small hands can easily squeeze a pig to death, especially when over the first few weeks whilst they get to know you and would recommend a slightly older pig over 10 weeks would be more suitable.
DIET
VITAMIN C. Guinea pigs need Vit C, about 10 to 30 mg a day to prevent scurvy so please provide fresh vegetables everyday about a cupful per pig.
Grass- A good handful of long grass they just love and they love to have access to a run. with babies it is a good idea to introduce the run gradually starting with about 10mins a day, building this up a few extra minutes every other day watching for any tummy problems, this is also important when they have been in all winter and the spring grass starts to grow.
Common problems
Most common problems are mites and skin problems.
Mite can be treated with Johnsons mite spray.
If the piggies are scratching ang making themselves sore then this is probably causedby borrowing mites, which can be trated with spot-on for small animals or the vet can give a suitable bath(Seleen).
Pigs can also get fungal conditions on their skin, usually sores around the ears and face, breeders find that a fungal treatment for Humans work well, but must be used for at least a month to make sure it is properly better.
There seems to be a lot of skin problems around this year so weekly health checks are important.
Spring.
You can now find dandelions and spring grasses to feed your piggies and soon they can go back out in their runs, gradully increase the amount of time on spring grass as sudden change can upset their tummies.
MITES.
watch out for your piggie scratching or hair lose, as they can get mites which can be treated with spot-on for small animals
HOT WEATHER
In hot weather, be sure that your piggies do not become to hot , if necessary move the cage/runs so they are not exposed to full sun all day, you can also cool the temperature of the cage, by placing a frozen small drinks bottle in the cage, also hanging a wet towel over the run.
If your piggies is dribbling, floppy and shaking in obvious distress, then he could well be suffering from heat stroke, what ever you do DO NOT plunge the pig straight into cold water, it will kill him , instead dunk his feet in cool water for 30 seconds get him into a cool/quiet room and wrap in a cool wet towel until he cools down and breathing returns to normal. keep him indoors overnight to avoid a chill.
USEFUL BOOKS
the proper care of Guinea pigs peter gurney.
piggie potions, Peter Gurney
the really useful guinea pig guide